Travel

U-955 & The Laboe Memorial

Q. What do a WW2 submarine, an 85m high Naval Memorial and a stretch of beautiful coastline have in common ?

A. They can all be found in one place in Laboe, about half an hour outside the German port city of Kiel.

This week was Autumn half term and as we all had a weeks leave, we decided a family trip was in order. Well, any excuse, right? As much as we love our adopted home of Germany and have enjoyed exploring all that Deutschland has to offer ( Frankfurt, Hannover,and Dortmund …and Berlin.  my beloved Berlin.) we were in the mood for something  a little different. With this in mind, we booked a mini cruise to Norway sailing out of the Northern German city of Kiel. And being the family that never knowingly turns down the opportunity to explore, we stuck on an extra night in Kiel to see what we could see.

Things Helen Loves, Image of Submarine mounted on beach under grey skies.
U-995, now a museum on the sand in Laboe.

What we did see was U-955, a German submarine that served as part of Nazi Germany’s Kriegsmarine during in WW2.  I had expected something that had been employed as an instrument of war to be an ugly sight, to look out-of-place. But U-955 is actually quite beautiful in its own way, perched quite unobtrusively on the shore of the Kieler Fjord.

Things Helen Loves, Inside a submarine , a narrow aorridor with machinery on each side
Cramped quarters…barely room for two adults to pass.

However, if the well cared for exterior inspired any romanticized notions about serving in one of these machines, the reality if the interior soon put such ideas to rest. Conditions were cramped and basic, to say the least. The comfort of the crew was not the priority here.

Things Helen Loves, bed spaces on board a submarine
Bunk space and lockers.

A rudimentary kitchen consisted of a small stove and little else. This to cater to the needs of a crew of fifty or so men. Sleeping arrangements for the general crew were equally lacking in luxury, being made up of long communal bunks with a tiny locker space for each man. Commanders bunks were slightly more comfortable, but not by much. Interestingly , there were only enough bunks for half the crew, so each bed space was shared by two men. The crew operated so that at any time, half the crew worked whilst half rested. It is difficult to imagine the physical and mental strength required to deal with the rigours of serving in such an environment at any time, let alone in the theatre of war. Visiting U-boat 955 left me in awe of what man can create in order to wage war, and  with a new-found respect for submariners past and present.

Things Helen Loves, view of corridor and small round hatch onboard submarine
Narrow spaces and tint hatches designed to connect or seal compartments of the U boat whilst at sea.

Having explored a vessel designed to go down, it was time to go up. 85m up actually, to explore the Laboe Memorial. Originally built-in the late 1920s in memory of German sailors killed in WW1, the memorial is now an internationally recognised peace monument. In the 1990s the tower was rededicated as a Memorial those who “Died at sea and for peaceful navigation of free waters”. In keeping with the monuments evolving role, this is now a place of both remembrance and education. Nowhere is this more evident than on the first floor where several walls are lined with flags and tributes laid by cadets and Sailors from all over the globe.

Things Helen Loves, exterior view of the Laboe Mmemorial accompanied by image of flags and tributes within
Exterior view of the Laboe Memorial and tributes laid within.

Other walls are carved with the silhouettes of different ships and lists the losses of both World Wars. It’s a visual, sobering summary.

Things Helen Loves, Image of wall carved with ship outlines
Memorial Hall inside the tower.

An unexpected feature of the memorial is the subterranean cavern. This crypt like room is reached via a tunnel lined with wreaths and is brimming with tributes from across the globe. Flags of all nations are proudly displayed here. This is a place of Remembrance, but also of reconciliation and unity.

Things Helen Loves, Coridoor lined with floral wreaths leading underground
Entrance to subterranean element of the Memorial

If you are feeling energetic you can take the stairs to the top of the tower, to the observation deck. I did and I can tell you, whatever energy I had at the bottom was gone by the time I reached the top. For the less able or those who don’t fancy the climb, there is a lift. However you get up there, its worth the effort. The views are incredible, even on a day when the weather is a bit temperamental, as it was for us.

Things Helen Loves, veiws across the sea from the top of the memorial tower
Views from the Observation Platform

Along with the rooms of memorial and remembrance there are a couple of rooms with more of a museum feel to them, with information about the modern-day German navy and lots of model ships. Our little chap enjoyed the models and we are now more knowledgeable about propellers, life boats, and funnels than we ever thought we would. I wonder who is teaching who sometimes.

Things Helen Loves, Boy examining model ship.
Boy meets ship. Didn’t feel the need to use his treasured binoculars to view this one.
Things Helen Loves, Gate decorated with padlocks representing everlasting love
Love tokens on the gates of the Memorial.

As we left the Memorial, I just had to stop and get a picture of the gate covered in love locks. The aspiring writer in me cant help but wonder at the stories behind the padlocks. Were any of them placed by a sailor and his sweetheart? I don’t know. Being a bit of an old romantic, I just hope they all had a happy-ever-after.

Until Next Time,

Helen x

 

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s