If you enjoy a bit of ‘Dark Tourism’, are a history enthusiast, a nature lover or are just looking for something a little bit different to do as a day trip from Berlin, this is the post for you.
Allow me to introduce you to Beelitz Heilstätten: An abandoned hospital near Berlin, tucked away in woodlands just 30 miles north of the German capital.
This former tuberculosis sanatorium has become a place where history, architecture and nature come together in a way that makes quite an impression on those who visit.
There are abandoned hospital buildings, a rooftop forest, a treetop walk and a century of history waiting to be discovered amongst the trees. In fact, in German this place is called, ‘Baum & Zeit’ which means, ‘trees & time’.
It looks exactly like you’d think an abandoned sanatorium in the woods should and it makes an absolutely fascinating day trip from Berlin.
What Is Beelitz Heilstätten?
Beelitz Heilstätten was established at the end of the 19th century as a tuberculosis sanatorium, at a time when fresh air and time spent in nature were considered to important elements of the treatment of the disease. It was much needed; overcrowded housing and unsanitary conditions in German cities meant tuberculosis was widespread.
The prescription at Beelitz was fresh air, lots of light, healing baths and nourishing food, to be taken in an idyllic setting.
Within the sprawling 200-hectare complex there were hospitals, therapy rooms and shops- Beelitz sanatorium was a self-sufficient village, surrounded by acres of woodlands and park-like grounds.
The story of Beelitz Heilstätten isn’t just one of tuberculosis treatment. During World War I it served as a military hospital, treating thousands of soldiers.
World War II saw the sanatorium and surrounds become the scene of fierce fighting between Soviet and German forces. If you look closely at some of the old walls, you’ll still spot bullet holes.
By April 1945, the Red Army had claimed victory and took the complex as their own. Due to the East German location, Beelitz remained Russian occupied until the 1990’s, becoming the largest Russian military hospital outside of the USSR
Beelitz Heilstätten has cared for thousands of patients over the decades, some you will have heard of. Adolf Hitler recuperated from injuries sustained in World War I here, while GDR leader Erich Honecker sheltered in the complex before fleeing to Moscow after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Following the reunion of Germany, Beelitz Heilstätten was eventually abandoned. Now the beautiful and atmospheric buildings are part of a fascinating complex perfect for photographers, explorers and anyone with an interest in German history.
Oh, and if an abandoned sanatorium with two war-time chapters in it’s history isn’t enough to send a shiver down your spine, there is one more thing you should know. In 1989-1990, this area was the hunting ground of serial killer Wolfgang Schmidt. He murdered six people in this area.
Today though, you don’t need to be an urban explorer to experience Beelitz Heilstätten and there’s no fighting, mayhem or murders. Visitors are welcome and can enjoy a tree top walk for unique exterior views of the old buildings, or book a guided tour for a glimpse inside.
Beelitz Heilstätten Treetop Walk
The best way to get an overview of Beelitz is from above. Literally.
The treetop walk- Baumkronenpfad– is an elevated wood-and-steel walkway that winds through the woodlands about 20m off the ground, giving a different perspective on the buildings and grounds below, which alongside the ruins and the history are home to 65 species of trees.
The treetop walk is also the best place to experience the Alpenhaus: Over the years, trees have taken root in the attic of the old building. The treetop walkway allows you to walk over the building ruins and through the unique rooftop forest.
Round off your treetop wander with a visit to the observation tower. The view from the top level is spectacular- you’ll see all the away across to the Berlin skyline on a clear day. It’s 200 steps to the top, the views are worth every one, but don’t worry if you don’t feel up to it: there’s also an elevator.
Can You Go Inside the Buildings at Beelitz Heilstätten?
Yes, but you can’t just wander in. You’ll need to book a guided tour to get inside the buildings. Each session has limited numbers and requires participants to sign a liability waiver and wear a safety helmet throughout.
If you’d like to take a tour in a language other than German, you will need to book ahead. Be aware that some tours also have age restrictions- participants must be at least 7 years old for some tours, whilst others have a minimum age of 12-16.
Unfortunately, I visited Beelitz on a whim and regretfully didn’t make it onto any tours of the buildings. You can view some interior images of the sanatorium here, and I think you’ll agree; it’s worth planning a return trip for.
Beelitz Sanatorium was originally designed by architects Heino Schmieden and Julius Boethke to be one of the most modern health care facilities of the time. There are many clever design elements including windows placed to maximise natural light and a ventilation system designed to bring fresh forest air indoors and interiors that showcase the finest craftsmanship of the time.
If you look at some of my pictures and the interior shots linked above, you might feel like you’ve seen this place before. Any you might well have; Beelitz Heilstätten’s haunting atmosphere and dramatic architecture have made this a sought-after filming location.
Beelitz has features in Roman Polanski’s ‘ The Pianist’ (2002), in Netflix series ‘1899’ and in the psychological horror film ‘A Cure for Wellness’ (2016).
Visiting Beelitz Heilstätten from Berlin
Location: Beelitz Heilstätten is located in Brandenburg, around 30 miles out of central Berlin, making it an easy add-on to a Berlin itinerary.
Getting There: R7 regional train will get you from Berlin directly to Beelitz, the treetop walk is signed from the station. You can board this service in Berlin at Gesundbrunnen, Charlottenburg or Wannsee.
If travelling by car, Beelitz is easily accessible via the A9 motorway, paid parking on site
Admission: Adults €17, guided tours €10-15 per person. Winter rate applied Nov-Feb- Adult €13.50.
Facilities: Cafe & beer garden, picnic area, toilets.
Why Is Beelitz Heilstätten Worth Visiting?
It’s a very do-able day trip from Berlin that offers something different to anything you’ll find in the city: this place has history in spades, stunning architecture, nature all around and a very unique atmosphere.
Whether you decide to wander the treetop walkway, book a guided tour through the old buildings or make a day of it and do both, you’ll be exploring a unique place in German history. Don’t forget your camera!
If you enjoyed this post, you might like to read one of these next:
Cairndhu House: Haunted History in Northern Ireland
Nature Park Schöneberger Südgelände: The Historic Berlin Park Where Nature Meets History
Helen x
It is an amazing place, and credit goes to the powers that be they revived it to become a place for wellness and well-being once more. A similar property in the US probably would have been razed to make way for a shopping district. I love the tree top walkway, and it definitely looks like you get some unique perspectives of the surrounding area.
It is credit to the local powers-that-be, I suspect it would have been easier to flatten the place. Especially in the years of reunification. Now it’s there for many generations to come and that’s grand.
Love the appearance of the raised walkway high above the trees Helen. It’s brilliant how new life can be breathed into these historic buildings.
I love seeing old places saved and repurposed somehow and being able to walk above them certainly makes Beelitz something special. Thank you for your interest in my latest German themed post Marion!
A fascinating story, and definitely a place to put on my visiting list, if only for that walkway.
Definitely one for the list, the treetop walks are lovely.
Wow, Beelitz will definitely be on my list if we go back to Berlin some time! I love the old buildings, the treetop walkway and the Alpine House. All wonderful for photography!
Yes, it would be a great place for pictures! The actual old village of Beelitz is just along the way and that had a few old buildings too- creative access required on those! Thanks so much for stopping by and leaving a comment.
When I first moved to Frankfurt in 1970, we lived in a fourth-floor apartment not far from the city center. From our bathroom window we could see the ruins of the old opera house (Alte Oper) with trees growing out of the upper floors. The trees were quite tall by that time because they had been growing undisturbed for twenty-six years, ever since the old opera house was devastated by bombs in the Second World War.
Oh wow- did you ever think to venture in? You’ve had some amazing times in Germany by the sounds of it!
No, we never went in — it was carefully fenced off as a hazardous ruin. But much later it was re-built for use as a concert hall.
This is a wonderful article, like you I love exploring old buildings and this is definitely on the DO list for 2023-24 thank you
Seems like exciting places to visit so full of history!!
Fascinating place! I love the walkway.