Cycling the Crab and Winkle Way in Kent: Canterbury to Whitstable by Bike

‘ It’s about the journey’ is a very over used phrase, but let me use it here. Because when it comes to the Crab and Winkle Way, a 7.5 cycle route in Kent, it is absolutely true.

This Kent adventure packs a surprising amount into a relatively short journey: historic Canterbury, country lanes and historic woodlands before rounding off with harbour views in Whitstable.

This is a fantastic way to explore Canterbury, Whitstable and the bit in-between. Ready for a brilliantly outdoorsy, budget friendly day out in Kent? Here’s everything you need to know.

What is the Crab & Winkle Way?

The Crab and Winkle Way is a 7.5 mile cycling and walking route that connects Canterbury and Whitstable in Kent. Much of the way traces the path of the old Canterbury & Whitstable Railway, a historic rail connection between the city and the coast.

The railway opened in 1830, designed by pioneering railway engineer George Stephenson. The railway was one of the earliest regular passenger routes and also the first to issue a season ticket. The railway route became known as the Crab and Winkle Line due to Whitstable’s long association with the shell fish and oyster industry.

Passengers were carried until the 1930’s, after which the line was good trains only until closure in 1952.

The route of the old line now forms part of the Crab and Winkle Way, creating a fantastic opportunity for cyclists and walkers to experience the countryside and coastline of Kent.

The Crab and Winkle Way Cycle Route

This is a popular leisure cycling route, and for good reason: it’s mostly on designated cycle paths or country tracks, there’s very little in-traffic cycling and its very well signed. At 7.5 miles each way with either Canterbury or Whitstable as attractive mid-point breaks if you make a circular of it, it’s also not too challenging.

Apart from one fairly steep climb leaving Canterbury, the route is fairly easy going. Undulating, but never too hilly. I did this trip on my trusty, 15 year old German city bike which is absolutely NOT made for these conditions and it did just fine.

Starting Point: Canterbury

We parked up in Canterbury as our starting point. There is plenty of parking available around the rail station and in town, but being a UNESCO World Heritage Site and prime tourist destination means that it does get very busy. Expect to pay about £2-£4 an hour for parking.

We used the Pound Lane Car Park which is a very convenient place from which to pick up the Crab and Winkle Way- the route is signed on the road from the car park. There’s also no height restriction, important when your out in a van!

Once out of the attractive centre of Canterbury, the route is easy going but unremarkable for a short while. You pass city outskirts, a housing estate and through the university campus before beginning the climb out of the city.

This initial, relatively steep climb is the only section that defeated me. I had to get off and push for a bit.

The elevation is worth it though, as once at the top the route opens out onto cornfields and country lanes, and the views are beautiful. There’s a beautiful opportunity to break the ride just outside Canterbury in the form of the Church of St Cosmus & St Damian.

Also known as the ‘Church in the Fields’, this church with an awkwardly long name is the quintessential English country church: shady church yard full of interesting graves, wooden beams, stained glass and country-style touches everywhere. Since you’re passing anyway, she’s certainly worth a look.

Leaving the edge of Canterbury behind, the route is almost all rural and off road, but remains well signed. The cycling is steady, taking you through a working farm and ancient woodlands before emerging onto the outskirts of Whitstable.

You can’t really miss the colourful and distinctive markers showing the way and distance to Whitstable. I like them, very cheerful!

Arriving in Whitstable

The Crab and Winkle Way officially ends at Whitstable Station, although you’ll know you’ve arrived long before that, as the outskirts of the coastal town are quite busy and the famous harbour is well signed.

We decided not to explore the town centre, not wanting to walk too far around Whitstable knowing we had to cycle back to Canterbury and then travel home from there. I would recommend a walk along the harbour though, it’s a bustling place with views out to the oyster beds and the estuary beyond.

Whitstable is famous for its oysters and shellfish, and if you’re into it, you’ll eat well here. There’s plenty of places along the harbour selling the freshest seafood. I enjoyed a wander for the views and the atmosphere, but it’s a hard pass on the seafood for me. I can’t stand the stuff.

After a wander and a coffee break, it was time to follow the Crab and Winkle Way back to Canterbury. Cycling the route as a circular gave us 15 miles-ish of cycling a historic route through glorious Kent countryside, from a historic city to a buzzing working harbour.

Canterbury View Point

It wouldn’t be a THL walk or cycle trip if we didn’t go off plan at least once, would it?

Following the route back to Canterbury, we took a wrong turn and picked up part of an alternative route on National Cycle Route 1. If you can plan it in, it’s worth a slight detour as it takes you along a rural road with sweeping views across the fields to Canterbury, with the iconic Cathedral taking centre stage.

Luckily, once we passed this viewpoint and realised we didn’t recognise the route, we were quickly able to retrace our path and pick up the Crab and Winkle Way again.

Good job we did, the National Cycle Route 1 is the longest signed route in the UK, starting in Dover and ending in Inverness. We could have gone quite far off track. Who knows where we might have ended up?

Can You Walk the Crab and Winkle Way?

Yes, absolutely! The Crab and Winkle Way is very walkable, you definitely don’t need two wheels to enjoy this route. If you fancy walking it but would prefer to skip the return journey, it’s very easy to start at either end and then catch a return train from either Canterbury or Whitstable.

I’ve included some tips below that will be useful whether you’re walking or cycling.

Tips for Walkers and Cyclists

• You don’t need to walk or cycle both ways. Canterbury and Whitstable are well connected by a regular rail service.
• There are no facilities or services on the route– no water refill, no toilets etc If you need it, take it!
• Ensure you have the right foot wear. Although the trail isn’t difficult, it does pass through historic woodlands and working farmland. Depending on the season, it might be a bit rough or a bit muddy.
• Cyclists- carry a puncture repair kit. I suspect most do, I’m terrible for not having one. Don’t be me.
• Stretches of the Crab and Winkle Way are very exposed. Check the weather, pack as required. We cycled this route in heatwave conditions – plenty of water and sunscreen for us.

Visiting Canterbury or Whitstable from London?

Both destinations are easily accessible by public transport from London, and the nature of the Crab and Winkle Way means that exploring this route makes for a great day trip into Kent. You could have breakfast in London, morning coffee in Canterbury and arrive in Whitstable to sample the famous oysters* for dinner before heading back to the city

* Other options available if oysters aren’t your thing. They certainly aren’t mine.

Trains to Whitstable depart from London St Pancras or London Victoria. Trains to Canterbury depart from London St Pancras, London Victoria or Charing Cross.

Personally, I’d always choose to start a journey at London St Pancras if possible- it’s a beautiful station, worth a visit in its own right.

The Crab and Winkle Way: Final Thoughts

I genuinely enjoyed cycling this route and would definitely do it again. It’s a relaxed option, not too challenging, bookended by two quite different but equally wonderful Kent destinations.

It’s a route I’d love to return to and walk with Little Wolf ( it’s definitely a dog friendly one) and I can see it being a beautiful place to walk or ride in all seasons.

Would you consider taking the Crab and Winkle Way?

Looking for more inspiration for things to do in Kent? You might enjoy one of these posts next:

The White Cliffs of Dover & Langdon Stairs Walk: The Creepy Tunnel & Secret Beach Adventure

7 Things To Do In Folkestone Before Catching Le Shuttle or The Ferry

Helen x