Explore a former police station turned Gestapo prison, now a memorial museum.
Dortmund. A friendly city with endearingly rough edges. A place of character, known for football, beer and a fabulous Christmas market.
Also the keeper of a fascinating and chilling Dortmund museum: The Museum of Resistance and Persecution.
The museum is housed in a former police station that became notorious when taken over by the Gestapo in the 1930’s. Under Nazi control, the police station became notorious as a place of imprisonment and torture.
Despite much of Dortmund being destroyed in WW2 by Allied bombings, the prison itself stood unscathed. Preserved more or less in original form, the building is a museum and memorial.
Why Visit the Dortmund Museum of Resistance?
You don’t go far in Germany without coming across some sort of WW2 museum or memorial, but the Museum of Resistance and Persecution in Dortmund stands out.
The fact that it’s housed in the Steinwache police station used by the Gestapo creates and authentic and moving experience. As I stepped across the threshold I couldn’t help but imagine the fear felt by those brought to this place between 1933-1945.
The museum focuses on local resistance movements in Dortmund and the Ruhr region, making this experience feel really personal to this part of Germany.
The exhibition isn’t high-tech or overly curated. The building, the exhibits and the personal stories speak for themselves.
It’s a powerful glimpse into a dark time in Dortmund history and the reality of life under the Nazi regime.
Exploring the Museum: What to Expect During Your Visit
Visitors to the museum begin in the same place prisoners did: the prisoner registration room. It’s a strange feeling to stand in such an unremarkable space and think of those who have passed through before you.
The museum then unfolds, spanning time from the Nazi rise of power through to the end of the war. Exhibits in a series of cells cover specific topics such as the power of propaganda and the role of the forger in the Resistance.
The activities of the Resistance movement in the Dortmund area are covered in some detail, with a focus on working class women and young people, who were particularly active.
The historical facts are interwoven with personal stories and images from Dortmund past.. One that stayed with me is that of ‘Opa Willi‘ or ‘Grandpa Willi’ who was beaten to death for refusing to acknowledge a swastika flag. All of the personal stories are deeply moving.
The Cells
Each cell in the prison is dedicated to a specific time or topic. A few of the cells have been knocked together, but these are still incredibly small spaces. Oppressive.
The exhibition uses this to great effect by presenting stark historical images large-scale in the smaller spaces. Some of the images did literally stop me in my tracks.
The Isolation Cell
Some cells have been restored to their original form, including the isolation cell. No bed, no blanket, no comfort.
I’m 5ft 7 and could touch each wall by standing with arms outstretched. I counted five paces from the cell door to the rear wall. It had an uncomfortable atmosphere.
Despite the difficult subject matter this Dortmund museum and memorial is testament to hope, bravery and survival.
Stolperstein at Steinwache
Stolpersteine (translates as, ‘stumbling stones’) are part of an international remembrance project by artist Gunter Demnig. The aim is to commemorate the victims of persecution and extermination by the Nazis across Europe as individuals.
Each small brass block represents one person and is places into the street as close as possible to the last address that person chose freely for themselves. An inscription on each stone gives details of the fate of the individual.
There are several Stolperstein just outside the museum and many more can be found across the city of Dortmund. Find a more detailed post on Stolperstein here
Tips for Your Visit
- Most of the museum is presented in German, but an English language guide is available.
- Entrance is free but donations welcome.
- Be aware if visiting with children that some of the images used are quite graphic.
- Whatever the weather outside, take a cosy layer for inside. It’s an old stone building and it was very chilly as we walked around.
- You might want to plan in something a little more lighthearted for after this experience. Dortmund is a wonderful city. Find further inspiration here
Location & Opening Hours
Find the Dortmund Musuem of Resistance & Persecution at Steinstrasse 50, Dortmund, 44147. It’s about a ten minute walk from Dortmund train station.
The closest U-Bahn is Leopoldstraße, just a few minutes walk away.
The museum is currently open Tuesday-Saturday, 10.00-17.00
This Dortmund museum isn’t your typical tourist attraction but it’s focus on local history and the fact that it’s housed within the walls of the building where it all took place is exactly what makes it worth adding to your itinerary.
In a part of Germany known for its industrial roots and football passion, this museum highlights a different aspect of the Dortmund story. A must-not-miss thing to do in Dortmund for history enthusiasts and anybody wanting to get to know this fantastic German city.
Helen x
Interesting! I lived in Dortmund for three years, but knew nothing of this. Thanks for sharing.
Oh, lucky you! I really liked Dortmund. The museum has been there a while but it took a while to be comfortably accepted, I think. It’s been listed on the Visit Dortmund site now, so I think it’s here to stay. Worth a visit, for sure.
I’ve been to Dortmund, but didn’t know about this museum. I’ll keep it in mind for a future visit.
It’s very much worth a look, but until recently has been a bit under the radar. I’m glad to be able to bring it to attention. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and comment, appreciate it!
Interesting Helen.
Thanks Brenda, it was certainly a though provoking day.
I’ve not visited Dortmund but the Museum of Resistance and Persecution would be an interesting but harrowing place to explore.
I’d recommend Dortmund Marion, it’s a friendly city with tond of character and lots to see and do 😊
Yes, I’d like to go sometime Helen!
I think it’s admirable that you visited this place and took the time to write about it. Not easy. It reminds me quite a bit of the National Socialism Documentation Centre, which I paid a visit to in Cologne many years ago. I’m glad that there was a hopeful aspect to the experience and that voices of the resistance were heard. Very sobering stuff, I’m sure thoughts of Opa Willi are going to keep coming back to me over the coming days.
Thanks Leighton. I don’t always write about WW2 related places I visit as I know it can be quite heavy. But this history is important, it needs to kept alive. And I don’t think German Resistance is so well known.
I hadn’t heard about this place but would definitely visit if ever in Dortmund. It reminds me of ‘Die Runde Ecke’ which we visited in Leipzig – the old Stasi HQ, now a museum. I do admire the way that on the whole the Germans don’t shy away from recognising that dark period of their past and providing insights into it like this.
Yes, it is similar to Die Runde Ecke. I think Germany is getting there, it’s encouraging how many smaller museums there are that were created by local residents.
I would love to visit this museum. I’m pretty well acquainted with Resistance stories from German-occupied France, but not at all about how it worked in Germany itself. When I ask myself the question ‘Would I have been brave enough?’ knowing that the consequences of being caught would be dire not only for me, but for my family, I don’t really think I like the possible answer.
I have asked myself the same question and come to the same conclusion, Margaret. I think Resistance in Germany was a complex business, but this place makes a good start at disentangling it.
What a sobering, but interesting museum. Museums like this have such an important place in society – not only to record and remember such appalling events so we don’t forget about them, but also to commemorate the bravery of those who were involved in the resistance. If I ever go to Dortmund, it’ll definitely be on my list of places to visit.
I’m glad I could bring this little German museum to your attention. If you are ever planning a trip to Germany, Dortmund is a great city. Thank you for taking an interest in my post.
I have studied Nazi Germany for many years, and have visited 4 or 5 documentation centres across Germany – but have never visited this museum in Dortmund. I knew the story of Opa Willi, and did my dissertation on how the Nazis rose to power but I still learned something from your post and would really value visiting here one day; thank you for showing it to me 🙂
You’re welcome, I’m glad you found the post interesting. Your studies sound so interesting, I’d love to get back to studying a few years when life is less busy. Dortmund is a great city. For history, but also for football, beer and some great walking on the outskirts!
Great piece! You painted the best version of Dortmund I’ve ever read, fantastic!
Chilling. Personal stories, such as that of Opa Willi, really make history hit home. Like Sarah, I admire the way the Germans face their history head on.
So much history!! I loved reading your posts. Thank you!
To me, this kind of history is important to recognize regardless of its “feeling,” and this museum does just that. Sounds like it is worthy of a visit when in Dortmund, which I only knew from its football exploits until now.
Dortmund is a keeper of some very interesting history, but definitely better known for the football and beer scene! I have a die hard Dortmund supporter in my brood, he was born just up the road from Dortmund when we were stationed in Germany.
I have a flight from Dortmund so right now thinking about spending a full day there
It’s a fabulous city, definitely worth exploring. And the Resistance museum is a must if you’ve an interest in WW2 history. Thanks for taking the time to read and comment, appreciate it.