Stow-on-the-Wold. Highest town in the Cotswolds. Owner of a rich history and a handsome market square. Also, in an area of England where pretty places are thick on the ground, the one that caught my eye.
If you visit The Cotswolds, you’ll have plenty of lovely places to visit. Here’s why I’m recommending you pick this one…
The Sheep Connection
Wandering round the town, you won’t miss the sheep thing. There are sheep references in shop windows, in street names, in the names and signs of the local businesses. Quaint and cute, but not just clever branding.
Stow-on-the-Wold made its fortunes in the wool and sheep trade. In fact, if you look at some of the streets leading into the market square, you’ll spot that some of them are curiously shaped; narrow, high walled and tapering. These are ‘tures’ and were designed to funnel sheep into the square on trading days.
Now they funnel tourists who, hopefully, get neither slaughtered nor fleeced.
If history is your thing, this is a good place for you. For a small place, Stow-on-the-Wold packs a big ol’ historic punch.
The final battle of the English Civil war played out here and is commemorated with a plaque on the Market Cross. It’s said that the king’s commander Sir Jacob Astley sat on the bottom of the cross when defeated and dismissed what remained of his forces.
Did that really happen? Who’s to say. It’s a good story, regardless. Worth seeking out the plaque at the cross for a sense of history and the 360 degree views around the square.
Elsewhere, the small but delightfully grim penal stocks are a quirky sight… and a bit at odds with the pretty Cotswold’s cottages surrounding them.
On the edge of town stands the Gothic drinking fountain, complete with built in horse troughs and dog bowl. The fountain commemorates the first reliable supply of pure water to the town in the mid 1800’s. A grand monument to something we take for granted now.
Stow-on-the-Wold is also packed with old buildings, pretty cottages, historic pubs. The Porch House claims to be the oldest pub in England. It certainly looks the part and has a fascinating feature in the form of a fireplace featuring ‘witch marks’. Worth a look.
Take a wander, take your camera.
Looking for a bit of retail therapy, want to see what local producers are doing or just really appreciate a pretty shop front? There’s something for everyone. Tearooms tucked in courtyards, antiques shops fit for a treasure hunt, passageways lined with indy shops and festooned with pretty planting and strings of lights.
Even a traditional ‘Gentlemen’s Outfitters’ and ‘Country Master Barber Shop’. Does it get much more English country life than that?
A special mention for Borzoi Books. This attractive, independent bookshop is run by a team of avid readers and is named after the much loved Borzoi dogs of the original owners. Dogs and books? Winner.
The Church with the Famous Door
St Edwards Church, Stow-on-the-Wold must be one of the most photographed churches in the Cotswold’s. Not so much for what is inside the walls, but rather for what is around the North Porch doors.
The door of the Grade I listed building is flanked by two Yew trees that seem to be growing into the building. Not unusual to find Yew trees in British graveyards, but these ones seem to have taken root in a whole new way.
The heavy studded door flanked by the tree, the stained glass, the old fashioned lamp hanging overhead creates a fairy tale, whimsical feel. Cue all the thoughts of Narnia, Brothers Grimm and every 80’s fantasy film I ever watched.
The story goes that J. R. R. Tolkien visited Stow and was inspired by the door when creating his Lord of the Rings trilogy. Fact, or another good story that doesn’t let truth get in the way?
No idea. This I do know; the church is a beauty and the door fascinating. Well worth a visit. You never know, you might be inspired to pen your own fantasy . Possibly about a magic door to escape the crowds because here’s the reality check…
This place is beautiful. But it gets busy. Crazy busy. The above photo of me , bit awkward. I look a bit rabbit in the headlights. Because there were about twenty other tourists milling and lining up to get the shot just in front of me. Wish I’d snapped a shot of them for the ‘expectation-vs-reality’ picture.
Don’t be put off. Just get there early, or maybe at dusk.
The Practical Stuff…
There’s lots of info about Stow-on-the-Wold on the town tourist information website.
Parking is free but limited on the Market Square, and some spaces are limited to 2 hours.
Ample parking available adjacent to the Tesco Superstore a few minutes walk out of town. Use postcode GL54 1DN to find it.
I like a bit of conversation in the comments so let me leave you with a question. I love discovering place like the door at St Edwards. Places that fire up the imagination, fairy tale places, whimsical corners of the world. Where have you been, in the UK or beyond, and found that kind of place?
Absolutly fascinating. 🙂
We had a short weekend stay in Stow way back in the early 1980s, I think it must have been! We’ve stopped off there since too, but staying over is the best way to see it with fewer crowds. I hate having to queue to take a photo!
It’s certainly the kind of place you’d need to be early and fast to get the good shots, I think. You get the most amazing photos Sarah, my aim going into next year is to upgrade my photography skills. I’m more comfortable behind that camera that in front of it!
Me too! If that’s your aim you could look into the various online photo challenges and tips, maybe taking on a new one each month such as learning about certain composition tools, trying out monochrome etc. And think about following the Lens Artists Photo Challenge bloggers who set such interesting weekly themes alongside advice on how to approach them 🙂
LOVE that door. I’d say worth the crowds.
Gosh, I must have been a teenager when I went to Stow, and it seems to have developed a fir bit since then, in a good way. There’s a village in France, near where we used to live., that becomes whimsical just once a year, for a few weeks only … https://margaret21.com/2012/07/26/once-upon-a-time-in-benac-le-cami-des-encantats/
What a lovely tradition for Benac, it’s good that an old way of life isn’t being forgotten. Could be interesting walking home through those figures after a few drinks! I think Stow probably has developed and continues to at a gallop. A few empty shops have been taken over by some pretty high-end country attire retailers. Seemed to be the place to be!
I actually learned a little bit of history here regarding the English Civil War. That bookshop photo makes me wish we still had more of them around here. The famous door and church both look impressive, the trees are fascinating, and you got to “step into the spotlight” with them. Enjoyed the tour, Helen!
Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed it!
Although I was in the Cotswolds earlier this year, I didn’t get to Stow so thanks for the tour. That photo of you by the church dour surrounded in Yew trees is lovely. Hope you are getting used to everyone being back at school and not finding it too quiet. It always took me awhile to adjust as I loved the long summer school holidays all together.
I wish we’d booked longer in the Cotswolds as there’s so many lovely places, we couldn’t everything we wanted to do in without over stuffing the days with plans! But it’s not so far from Wiltshire so maybe we’ll go back.
It is a little strange being alone, big High school and 6th form transitions this year but I’m adjusting. I try to embrace every season of life! Thanks for your comments and continued support, I appreciate it.
I have driven through Stow on many occasions, High time I stopped. Meantime for inspirational places a church inside a cave on the Greek island of Samos. Then there’s Carcassonne !
Stow is definitely worth a stop, plenty of places to wander and then to stop for a cup of tea. I’ve just looked up the church is Samos, it’s a beauty. Also Carcassonne, I’m a Kate Mosse reader so that would be a great destination for me!
Enjoyed reading your post. Brought back happy memories of visiting there back in 1984 whilst backpacking around Europe and the UK for our honeymoon. We ate and drank at the Kings Arms a couple of times. Didn’t know about the doorway at St Edwards but do remember the stocks in the square. Cheers, Mark
Enjoyed reading your post. Brought back happy memories of visiting Stow back in 1984 whilst backpacking around Europe and the UK for our honeymoon. We ate and drank at the Kings Arms a couple of times. Didn’t know about the doorway at St Edwards but do remember the stocks in the square. Cheers, Mark
I’m glad to have brought back some happy memories, I suspect the place won’t have changed a great deal! It has a timeless beauty. Thanks so much for stopping by and leaving a comment
I love Stow 🙂
Stow sounds lovely with lots of little interesting details and stories to explore. The church door is fantastic, no wonder everyone wants a shot. I absolutely understand the awkwardness of having a queue of people waiting to get the same shot, it takes away from the experience. But, as you say getting there early usually solves the problem.
Stow is an absolute beauty, but it does get busy! I always intend to get going early but I like a lazy start on holiday! Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment, appreciate it!
I’d love to visit it!
I think you’d love it Tanja- lots of traditional red phone boxes cute tea rooms!
I’m so glad you love this amazing part of The Cotswolds!
It’s so charming and some amazing things to explore!
Thank you for sharing your reasons and lovely photos!