Dungeness, Kent in the South of England.
Some call it a beach, some call it a desert. More on that in a minute. Whatever you call it, it is a fascinating place and well worth a visit.
If you like your seaside adventures to be of the traditional sort- arcades, ice cream and a pretty pier– this probably won’t be the one for you. However, if you like a coastal spot with an air of mystery you’ve hit the jackpot.
Welcome to Dungeness. Read on for everything you need to know about visiting this English beach that has been voted one of the greatest in the world.
Dungeness: Is It A Beach or A Desert?
An interesting question, and the answer seems to depend on who you ask.
Dungeness is a peculiar place, a vast expanse of shingle and a conservation area due to the fact it is home to a huge variety of wildlife. It was also for many years known as the UK’s only desert. Plenty still believe this to be so, despite the fact the UK Met office has said otherwise.
Given that it loses more water that falls on it in any given year and looks desert-like with its shingle ledges and scrappy growth, I think this unique place can keep the desert crown.
Things to See & Do, Dungeness
- Soak up the atmosphere. It’s part wild west, part post-apocalyptic. Scattered about, colourful cottages and boats in various state of repair. The two power stations looming large add to the unusual feel of the place.
- Visit the Grade II listed Old Lighthouse for views across the shingle and a look at the history of lighthouses in the area. It’s a curious business and more interesting than you might think!
- Visit Prospect Cottage, former home of artist, filmmaker, gay rights activist and gardener Derek Jarman (1942 – 1994). The cottage is unmissable with distinctive yellow window frames and lines of a poetry up the side in black lettering.
- Ride a little railway: the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway is a vintage miniature railway that runs through some of Kents most unique seaside towns to its own little station at Dungeness. Who can resist a vintage steam train experience?
- Spot the full size railway carriages. In the 1920’s, Southern Railway allowed employees to buy redundant Victorian carriages to be hauled onto the shingle and used as make shift beach homes. Some still be spotted now and you can even stay overnight.
The Lighthouses of Dungeness
Lighthouses are a thing here. The modern one, that actually functions. The historic one, now a visitor attraction. And there’s been five more over time. If you mapped the locations, you’d note that most of them seem curiously far from the sea. There’s a reason for this.
The geography of Dungeness on a shingle headland means that new banks of shingle are always being formed. That means that every so often, the sea would appear to recede away from the lighthouses, leaving them redundant.
If you visit Dungeness you’ll notice the dry-land lighthouses and numerous boats abandoned far from the sea. It adds to the unique, mysterious atmosphere.
- If arriving by car, head for Dungeness Station. Use post code TN29 9NA.
- The Station has free parking, toilets & baby change facilities
- There are a couple pubs, a cafe at the station and a sea food shack if you want to stop off for refreshments but I’d recommend at least taking your own water.
- Wear supportive footwear, walking on shifting shingle is hard. Doing it in flip flops results in very sore legs the next day.
- No swimming at Dungeness. A sharply shelving shore, strong currents and sea fishing activity make it unsafe. Head for neighbouring Great Stone or Dymchurch for safe swimming.
Shifting shingle, vintage rail carriages and that unique Dungeness atmosphere. Have I inspired you to visit?
If your looking for more inspiration to explore in Kent, why not read this post next.
Helen x
An intriguing place to visit Helen. I’d love to climb to the top of the old lighthouse one day too!
Thank you, hopefully I’ll get back to make the climb. Maybe I should get a bit of training done beforehand, it’s a lot of steps!
I’ve never visited Dungeness, but you make it sound both intriguing and appealing. It’s not on th path to anywhere much for this dyed-in-the-wool Northerner, so I wonder if I ever shall visit?
Ah, a fellow Northerner! Dungeness was a funny one. Yes, it’s an end-of-the-line sort of place. Worth a look if you ever find yourself in the South though. And if not, many wonderful places to be enjoyed between North and South!
My husband used to work in our local power station and for some obscure reason was sent to Dungeness on a long ago visit. It might even have been in the time of the old lighthouse. He made it sound very unappealing, but it was probably raining. 🙂 🙂 I remember seeing it on a documentary and it did look a bit dismal. But you obviously have a more cheerful disposition. That’s a definite asset.
I’ve always thought Dungeness would be a fascinating place to visit, as it’s quite quirky, but maybe not during a heatwave! I’ve seen a couple of documentaries about DJ which were interesting.
I had a similar misapprehension about deserts until John went to a conference in the Arizona desert. I imagined a hotel on an oasis amidst sand dunes as far as the eye could see. Nope! Nothing like that, as I found out when I visited myself some years later. Dungeness sounds like the sort of place I’d enjoy.
I’m glad I’m not the only one 😂 it’s an intriguing place to say the least. Especially tucked in amongst the greenery of Kent!
This is the first I’ve heard of Dungeness and you have made it sound so intriguing. It’s a place ripe for another ‘Stranger things’ , shifting sands, strange noise and nuclear power station 😊. My imagination is going berserk! Also the number of lighthouses you say and all far from the sea , sounds fascinating!
Great post. Been to Dungeness so many times and always thought it was truly weird. Some wonderful views and very peaceful but you are so right about the post-apocalyptic feel. Seems like the world has slightly given up on it doesn’t it? I always told our boys that every house had either a murderer or a body inside! That sort of place.
I had no idea this place existed, especially in the UK! It looks like a really interesting place. Good know for a potential future destination.
Thanks, I had no idea either until recently.
Desert in UK ! Oh well never thought something like this exists.
there’s a desert in Croatia too, similarly not the Sahara type of desert that we all think of, more like this one:)
Oh really? I must look that up. I’d love to visit Croatia. One day, after all of this!
This place is amazing Helen! I’d love to take the kids here and go on a little scavenger hunt to see what we can find. The steam engine train sounds like a treat as well, the kids will be very excited! Beautifully captured photos too! 🙂
Thank you so much, it’s a great place for kids. Good for an adventure!
Very Nostalgic and enchanting land. And one of those landscapes that can move any Photographer or cinematographer for hours. Thanks for this. Lovely images.
Nara x
Thank you so much. And yes, enchanting is the perfect description, I’m sure if I go back I’ll capture completely different views.